All America Roadside Assistance Newsletters

In this fast-paced world of endless work and little play, the last thing many people think about is crawling under the car and changing their vehicle's oil. After all, there are Grease Monkeys and Jiffy Lubes on just about every corner, and that says nothing for all the garages and big-box chains that will also service your vehicle.

But if you are the do-it-yourself type, you will find the process takes only about 30 minutes of your time and will only set you back around $10 or $15 if you have all of the right tools. Of course, you may get grimy, so if you have an aversion to getting your hands dirty you just may want to head out to a garage. If you are ready to get under the car and take care of business, then read on.

When to Change the Oil
Check your vehicle owner's manual and see what the manufacturer recommends. Most will tell you to make the change once every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, so this is a pretty good leeway. Your dad may tell you something completely different. Then there is the opinion of the mechanic at the local garage, who will also throw out a number and then offer to change it for you each time. The general rule of thumb, especially if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top condition, is to change the oil every 3,000 miles.

Tools for the Job

It is a dirty job, so dress in old clothes that you do not mind getting grubby.

Oil filter wrench.
Rags.
Pan of some type that is wide and deep enough to hold at least a gallon of oil.
Four to six quarts of oil; this will obviously depend on your vehicle. Check the manual for the exact number required by the manufacturer. The manual will generally also list recommended brands and advise you what type of viscosity you need to have for the best success with your vehicle.
Funnel to ensure the oil goes into the right place. Many oil makers now make handy containers that do not require a funnel for many vehicles. You can simply put the entire nozzle in the opening. But if you make a practice of doing this job yourself all the time, you should definitely pick a funnel up at some point. They are available at auto parts stores, gas stations, and even home improvement and some grocery stores.
If you have a low-riding vehicle or just prefer more space to maneuver, then you will also need a jack or wheel blocks. However, most vehicles have enough of a gap to easily reach the oil pan. Some oil filters are accessed via the underside of the vehicle. In these cases propping the vehicle may be a better option.

Steps to Complete the Task



			(dmv.org) In this fast-paced world of endless work and little play, the last thing many people think about is crawling under the car and changing their vehicle's oil. After all, there are Grease Monkeys and Jiffy Lubes on just about every corner, and that says nothing for all the garages and big-box chains that will also service your vehicle. But if you are the do-it-yourself type, you will find the process takes only about 30 minutes of your time and will only set you back around $10 or $15 if you have all of the right tools. Of course, you may get grimy, so if you have an aversion to getting your hands dirty you just may want to head out to a garage. If you are ready to get under the car and take care of business, then read on. When to Change the Oil Check your vehicle owner's manual and see what the manufacturer recommends. Most will tell you to make the change once every 3,000 to 7,500 miles, so this is a pretty good leeway. Your dad may tell you something completely different. Then there is the opinion of the mechanic at the local garage, who will also throw out a number and then offer to change it for you each time. The general rule of thumb, especially if you want to keep your vehicle in tip-top condition, is to change the oil every 3,000 miles. Tools for the Job It is a dirty job, so dress in old clothes that you do not mind getting grubby. Oil filter wrench. Rags. Pan of some type that is wide and deep enough to hold at least a gallon of oil. Four to six quarts of oil; this will obviously depend on your vehicle. Check the manual for the exact number required by the manufacturer. The manual will generally also list recommended brands and advise you what type of viscosity you need to have for the best success with your vehicle. Funnel to ensure the oil goes into the right place. Many oil makers now make handy containers that do not require a funnel for many vehicles. You can simply put the entire nozzle in the opening. But if you make a practice of doing this job yourself all the time, you should definitely pick a funnel up at some point. They are available at auto parts stores, gas stations, and even home improvement and some grocery stores. If you have a low-riding vehicle or just prefer more space to maneuver, then you will also need a jack or wheel blocks. However, most vehicles have enough of a gap to easily reach the oil pan. Some oil filters are accessed via the underside of the vehicle. In these cases propping the vehicle may be a better option. Steps to Complete the Task Make sure your vehicle is parked on a flat surface and not at an angle. To expedite the process, you will want to make sure the oil drains as quickly as possible. This is best if the oil is hot. If the temperature outside is pushing the century mark you should be in good shape, but usually you will want to start the car, gas it a few times, and let it idle for a few minutes to heat the oil. Shut the car off before proceeding. Okay, it is time to slide beneath the vehicle. The oil tank should be pretty obvious. First, it is quite large and sags down a bit from the engine area. Second, it is one of the only parts you will see with a bolt protruding from it. Once you find the tank and locate the bolt, slip the pan below. Unscrew the bolt/plug with a wrench. The oil rushing from the drain most likely will drive the bolt/plug into the pan. Remember, the oil will be on the sizzling side so it is best to just let the bolt fall into the pan rather than try to yank it away once it comes free. This will save your hands from getting burned and gooey. Let the all of the oil deplete into the pan. This should not take more than a couple of minutes. Once the last drop has dropped, take one of the rags and wipe the excess oil from the seal area of the plug opening. Also, retrieve the bolt/plug from the pan, if necessary, and wipe clean with a rag. Screw the bolt back in, but make sure not to overtighten. Locate the oil filter. Adjust the pan to catch the oil that will fall from the filter once it is screwed out of the socket. Attach the wrench tightly around the filter and give it some elbow grease. You just may find yourself in a battle trying to remove the filter and even crush the body. Do not get discouraged. Simply make sure the wrench grip is solid and try for that first release. Once you achieve that, the filter should twist right off. Also remove the gasket casing. Set the old filter off to the side and swab the housing area with the rag until it is free of old oil. You are now ready to install the new filter. Screw it in, taking caution not to go to the extreme when tightening. A good rule to use is to rotate until snug by half, then give it another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. At this point the hard part is over. Now you just need to locate the lubricant depository, usually marked by a cap noted appropriately: oil. Open it and pour in the required amount of oil. Only pour in the noted amount. Use the funnel if needed. Replace the cap upon completion and wipe up any excess oil. Start the vehicle and do a quick check on all of the components to seek out any leaks. If no leaks spout, you have successfully changed the oil. Now you are ready to clean up. This entails funneling the oil in the pan and filter into a bin of sorts (old milk cartons or juice bottles are good). Take the old oil to your local garage or auto parts store for disposal. 2007 NEWSLETTERS